The large, white felt tent, known as a ger (pronounced 'gair') and seen all over Mongolia, is probably the most identifiable symbol of Mongolia. (The word yurt was introduced by the Russians. If you don't want to offend the nationalistic sensibilities of the Mongolians, use the word 'ger'.)The outer and innermost material of the ger is usually canvas, with an insulating layer of felt sandwiched in between, all supported by a collapsible wooden frame. They appear flimsy, but gers hold up amazingly well to Mongolia's fierce winds. Ancient gers were more solidly built: when it was necessary to move them, they had to be placed on carts and pulled by horses. This proved very cumbersome, so the invention of collapsible models was a great advance in Mongolian technology.

It is bad manners to knock on the brightly decorated or painted doors of the ger. Instead, you should call out 'Nokhoi khor!', which roughly translates as 'Can I come in?', but literally means 'Hold the dog!' To avoid being eaten alive by a vicious and highly protective (and, possibly, rabid) mongrel, learn how to say this properly.

Customs & Gers

 One of the most important things to remember when you enter a ger is to be confident: don't smile sheepishly or look nervous. Feel at home, relax and don't worry if people come and go. Here are some of the more important rules to observe:   

   Don't:   

• lean against a support column.   
• whistle inside a ger.   
• stand on or lean over the threshold.
• stamp out a fire or put water or any rubbish on it; fire is sacred.
• walk in front of an older person.
• turn your back to the altar and religious objects at the back of the room (except when leaving).
• take food from a communal plate with your left hand.
• touch other people's hats.
• have a long conversation in your own language in front of hosts who do not understand it.

    Do:

• take at least a sip, or a nibble, of the delicacies offered.
• keep your sleeves rolled down, if you have any, or pretend to, if you have short sleeves; try not to expose your wrists.
• accept food or drink with your right hand (or with both if the dish or cup is heavy), with the left hand supporting the right elbow.
• pick up anything with an open hand, with your palm facing upwards.
• leave any weapons outside.

    Superstitions:

• Don't write anything in a red pen.
• Don't point a knife in any way at anyone.
• Don't spill any milk.
• When offered some vodka, dip the ring finger of your right hand into the glass, and lightly flick a drop (not too much - vodka is also sacred) once towards the sky, once in the air 'to the wind', and once to the ground. If you don't want any vodka, go through the customs anyway, put the same finger to your forehead, say thanks, and return the glass to the table.
• Don't point your feet at the hearth.
• Don't walk over an uurga (lasso pole).
• If you have stepped on anyone or kicked their feet, immediately shake their hand.